We came to Northern Greece and southern Bulgaria (aka Ancient Macedonia) in part to explore the Sephardic Jewish history of the eastern Balkans. A bit of background: After the Jews were expelled from Spain in 1492 many moved to Central and Southeastern Europe in the Ottoman empire where they maintained Read More

Entering Bulgaria: We leave Thessaloniki with our guide Philip Stanimirov (and new best friend) and drive three hours over rolling hills toward the Balkan mountain range to the Bulgarian border. Bulgaria is in the EU and – while we were there – about to find out that it was newly Read More

Koprovitsa: We head to the ‘National Revival’ village of Koprovitsa, a two hour drive from the capital, Sofia, where the initial uprising to oust the Ottomans in 1875 started. Many of the houses were built and refurbished in the National Revival style, and the town today attracts a local crowd Read More

This is a bit of a history lesson; read if so inclined! Several things can be true at once: Bulgaria is the only European country that did not comply with Hitler’s demands to deport its Jews. It is also the only European country whose Jewish population increased during WWII. But Read More

Sofia: You can take communism out of the country but not out of the land. Beyond the blocks of shabby Soviet-era apartments ringing the cities, (but still in use and evidently in decent shape) there are reminder symbols blasted into the sides of buildings, and occasional monuments on highways. On Read More

Final observations: Worth a trip? No question.  Will Bulgaria become the next Portugal? Not likely, but it will take its place on the tourist map. It’s so rare to be in archeological surroundings of this caliber and to have them literally to yourself.  Road signs were in English and Bulgarian, major Read More