Final observations:

Worth a trip? No question.  Will Bulgaria become the next Portugal? Not likely, but it will take its place on the tourist map. It’s so rare to be in archeological surroundings of this caliber and to have them literally to yourself.  Road signs were in English and Bulgarian, major roads were well marked, but smaller roads and directions within towns and cities would have been a huge challenge if we hadn’t had Philip as our guide and driver. (More about guides below!)

Food – frankly nothing to get excited about – but healthy – salads, a huge variety of cheese, yoghurts, kefir – a Balkan take on mezze – lots of eggplant, grilled, braised meats, kebabs, kofte.  Local food is mostly peasant food – everything the overlords didn’t take – sheep’s head appeared on many menus off the tourist trail. Tripe, offal, feet, ears – all the stuff we throw away.  In Thessaloniki food is more traditionally Greek but with a mountain take. (And for some reason all Caesar salads come with chicken whether you want it or not). And of course, in the attempt to catch up to the west, food in major centers in Bulgaria is basic international – pasta, salads, grilled meats.  We were there in late May when cherries, apricots and kiwis were ripening and about to hit the markets.

Wine:  The red wines that I sampled in Bulgaria are excellent and the country is working hard to create wine tours. (These are some of the oldest wine-growing regions in the world dating back to the Thracians). Some of the varietals are grapes we’ve never heard of so there’s a sharp learning curve if you’re an aficionado. In Thessaloniki the local white wines were effervescent and refreshing – again varietals that are unfamiliar, but fun to try.

Hotels we stayed in:

Thessaloniki: Hotel ON Residence. 5 star. Newly redesigned and reopened with an excellent restaurant. On the waterfront promenade with a high-demand rooftop bar with lovely views. Many rooms have water view balconies but they tend to be small with light switches that are designed to make anyone over 60 feel like a dinosaur.
Pro: Good access to anywhere. Great breakfasts with lovely local delicacies.
Con: small lobby and rooftop bar is hopping on weekends.

Plovdiv: Hotel Residence City Garden. 5 star. We loved most things about this hotel: The rooms were large, well-laid out with lots of light, great rose oil products, and the hotel is on the edge of the Tsar Simeon Garden – which may be one of the loveliest city park/gardens I’ve ever visited. Walking distance to pretty much everything you’d want to see – from classical ruins, museums, Revival architecture, restaurants, Roman arena, the Kapana art district, and the old town at the top of the hill. There are newer and probably more upscale hotels in the old town but access, especially by car, would be a real impediment, given the narrow, steep streets. (And did I mention the cobblestones?)
Pro: Everything except…
Con: Breakfast is uninspired and taken in a windowless basement room.  

Sofia: Juno Hotel 5 star. Very new hipster hotel with dots on the wall for light switches and no door handles. Key cards are small wooden disks. Hotel desk and concierge is accessed by a dummy iphone. (At this point we are just amused by excess novelty rather than annoyed.) Good access to pedestrian Vitosha Boulevard and all attractions in the center of the city. In keeping with the “this is not a door” vibe, it is impossible to figure out where the entrance is from the street, until a plank of wood opens and a guy who looks like a bouncer from Kazhakistan ushers you in. Nice ground floor restaurant and the bar draws a young international and business crowd. Good breakfast; good service.  Truly, the service staff in every hotel from front desk to housekeeping were friendly and helpful.

This trip was organized by Joseph Benatov of Sephardic Balkans. https://sephardicbalkans.com
Joseph runs organized trips on Sephardic heritage every May/June to Bosnia, Serbia, Rumania, Bulgaria, North Macedonia, Thessaloniki, Albania. He planned this itinerary specifically for us. He also arranged for our wonderful guides, Patty Moschou in Thessaloniki; Hella and Elias Matalon for Jewish heritage in Thessaloniki; and Philip Stanimirov in Bulgaria. They were all excellent, and a huge shout-out to Philip who was extremely knowledgeable, easy-going, no topic off limits, had great access and great suggestions, intrepid driver – we would have trusted him with our lives!

Background reading:

https://www.tandfonline.com/doi/full/10.1080/17449057.2023.2216520#d1e280
Saving Bulgarian Jews from the Holocaust: The Role of National Identity. Deborah Mayersen. Published online June 13, 2024. Ethnopolitics Volume 23, Issue 5 https://encyclopedia.ushmm.org/content/en/article/bulgaria
US Holocaust Memorial Museum

Salonica, City of Ghosts, by Mark Mazower.
Balkan Ghosts, by Robert Kaplan.
The Balkans; A Short History, by Mark Mazower.
Birds Without Wings: A Novel by Louis de Bernières (The end of the Ottoman Empire)